Wednesday, December 29, 2010

Week Four - Dubai to Istanbul

Day 23, Sunday, December 26th.  We flew for 5 hours on Emirates Airlines from Dubai to Istanbul covering 1,900 miles. On arrival, we were met by two women who work for Timur Ceylon, a Turkish friend of my sister and brother-in-law.  Tugba and Gamze made us feel very welcomed.  The four of us went to a wonderful fish restaurant for dinner that overlooked the Bosphorus Bridge which is all lit up at night.  This bridge connects Europe and Asia.

Day 24, Monday, December 27th.  We took a full day tour of the old city of Istanbul.  The highlights were the Blue Mosque (world-renowned for its beautiful blue tiles), the Basilica Cisterns, the Grand Bazaar, the Topkcapi Palace (Imperial residence of the Ottoman Sultans) and the Rustem Pasa Mosque.  After being in the ultra-modern cities of Kuala Lumpur, Singapore and Dubai it was a pleasure to be in Istanbul, a city that has retained its old world charm and traditions.  There are very few modern high rise buildings in Istanbul.  While over 90% of the population is Muslim, Turkey seems to practice a lighter version of the religion.  Most of the women in the other Muslim cities we have visited at least wear scarfs on the heads, but here most of the women we have seen on the streets do not cover their heads at all.
Blue Mosque

Inside Blue Mosque

Cistern

Medusa upside-down

Ci of Grand Bazaar

Turkish coffee - just like mud

Rustem Pasa Mosque

Topkcapi Palace

Topkcapi Palace
Day 25, Tuesday, December 28th.  Istanbul is divided into the European and Asian sections.  Yesterday we discovered the European past and today we explored the Asian side. The most spectacular sight was the Beylerbeyl Palace which was the summer home to the sultans. It is forbidden to photograph the interior of this remarkable palace, but its beauty surpassed many Western European palaces we have visited. In the afternoon, we cruised the Bosphorus along the European and Asian shores. In the evening, we dined on Turkish food at the restaurant on the top of our hotel which overlooks the Bosphorus Bridge and the city lights.

Bosphorus Bridge

Beylerbeyl Palace

Spice Market

Rumeli Fortress

Dolmabahce Palace

Mosque and Church

Day 26, Wednesday, December 29th.  In the morning we explored the Dolmabahce Palace which was the third residence of the Ottoman Sultans until the Turkish Republic was created in 1929. Mustafa Ataturk, the first president of Turkey, lived in the palace until his death in 1938.  No photos were allowed inside the palace, but it was magnificent.  Attached it the palace is the residence of the Harem.  The Sultan had four official wives who lived there along with 200 other women, including his mother.  It was beautify but not as opulent at the Palace. In the afternoon, we visited Haghia Sophia, the marvelous Byzantine basilica built in the 6th century.   When the Turks conquered Constantinople in 1453, the Church was converted into a mosque.  Today it is a museum showing its Islamic and Christian past.  No words can really describe the beauty of this remarkable building.  It is one of the most visited sites in Turkey. We took two harrowing taxi rides in Istanbul – truly, like Goofy’s wild ride. We had an amazing fish dinner on our final night in Istanbul with Timur, Gamze and Tugba.  Timur met my sister and her husband when he lived in the Bay Area.  They gave us a beautiful Turkish coffee set.

Timur, Gamze, Tugba, Jo and Izzy



Dolmabahce Palace
Dolmabahce Palace
Dolmabahce Palace
Dolmabahce Palace






All toilets in Turkey are like this - see close up following





Saturday, December 18, 2010

Week Three - Kaula Lumpur to Singapore and Dubai

Day 15 - Saturday, December 18th.  We took the 40 minute, 200 mile flight this morning on Jetstar from Kaula Lumpur to Singapore. Singapore is an island nation off the tip of the Malay peninsula with a population of 5 million. The city was founded in 1814 by Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles and won its independence from Britain in 1965.  The population is a blend of Chinese, Indians, Malaysians and Europeans. It is one of the cleanest cities in the world and the third largest business center in the world.

The Pan Pacific Hotel at the marina will be our home for the next four nights.  We were treated to amazing views from our 25th floor balcony. In the afternoon, we had high tea at the Raffles Hotel. The tea included a huge selection of deserts - we ate so much that neither one of us felt like dinner.  My favorite thing was a gingerbread soup with black cherries.  Izzy loved the bread pudding.  All the tables had white linens and fresh flowers.  There was a harpist playing Christmas music.Raffles is the iconic hotel of Singapore where the rich and famous have been staying for over 130 years.  It is the home of the famous Singapore Sling. With nightly rates over $600, it was a little rich for our blood. They had a car rally at the hotel with over 30 Lamborghini cars.  Later we took a boat ride on the Singapore River through Chinatown and the downtown area. Singapore is all decked out for Christmas, but the decorations don't match those in Kaula Lumpur.
Raffles Hotel - Singapore
Izzy's new car 

Cruise on Singapore River
Night view from our room
View from our room

Day 16 - Sunday, December 19th. We started the day with a city tour highlighted by the National Orchid Gardens.  Singapore is a very green city - orchids abound even on the sides of ordinary streets.  The city is alive with new buildings while still retaining the historic colonial and Chinese buildings. I love the colorful shutters on the old buildings.  We felt like we were actually in India when we had lunch in Little India. Indian music and DVD's of Dollywood movies were in every shop. We ate at the Banana Leaf Cafe where your plate is a banana leaf!  I enjoyed an ice cold Tiger Beer with lunch. 


It is very HOT and humid here.  In the afternoon, we took a three-hour walk around the city and went to the top of the Sands Marina Bay Hotel.  This three tower hotel with the banana boat structure on top is owned by the same American company that owns the Sands in Las Vegas. The cost was $8.2 billion! On the 56th floor is an infinity pool and amazing 360 degree views. There is a huge casino and an endless shopping mall with all the very high end shops.  They even have the salons where you can soak your feet with little fish who eat off all the dead skin.  The marina is filled with large white plastic balls covered in messages and wishes.  The balls will all be lit up on New Year's Eve.  We couldn't resist adding a message of our own - see photo below.  Our next stop was the Singapore Flyer, the largest ferris wheel in the world.  The 30 minute ride offered views over the city and the two rivers.
Sands Marina Bay at night from our hotel room balcony

Singapore Flyer at Sunrise from our balcony

Merlion Park at the marina

Orchid Garden

Banana Leaf Cafe with ice cold Tiger Beer

Historic shuttered windows in Little India

Lucky ball thrown in Singapore Marina

Fish pedicure


Infinity Pool at top of Sands Marina Hotel

Top of Singapore Flyer Ferris Wheel
Day 17, Monday, December 20th.  We had breakfast this morning with the orangutans at the Singapore Zoo. A family of 10 of these magnificent creatures joined us at breakfast.  The babies were swinging and having a grand time. The zoo is very unique, because there are no cages andwith exquisite native trees and flowers. As you can see from the photos below, this zoo has a large collection of unusual monkeys and apes. Be sure to look at the romance we saw at the zoo.  After lunch, we treated ourselves to a Singapore Sling at Raffles - $58 for two drinks!

Singapore even rates their restrooms - 5 star is the highest rating!





Breakfast with the Orangutans




Proboscis Monkey -female


Romantic Singapore - Jungle Love


Proboscis Monkey - Male


Singapore Sling at Raffles
In the evening, we went to Chinatown. It was the typical hustle, bustle of a big city Chinatown.  Izzy had chili crab, the iconic dish of Singapore, and I had abalone for the first time in over 20 years! There was a very beautiful Confucius temple there along with the historic shuttered windowed buildings.
Temple in Chinatown


Shuttered windows in Chinatown

Chili Crab
Day 18, Tuesday, December 21st. We continued to explore Singapore today on the Hop On Hop Off Bus and on the Duck - the vehicle that is a boat as well as a bus. We discovered that Singapore is one super-gigantic shopping mall connected by tunnels and enclosed bridges.  Everything you can ever imagine can be found in these thousands of shops, many of which are very high end.  I think the global recession must have bypassed Singapore. In the evening we enjoyed Cantonese food at the fine restaurant on the top of our hotel that juts out over the city.


These are the white wishing balls floating in the Marina in Singapore
Day 19, Tuesday, December 22nd. We traveled 3600 miles on  Emirates Airlines for the 7 1/2 hour flight from Singapore to Dubai.  The service was five star!  There was a selection of at least a hundred movies that you could watch from the moment you sat down in your seat. I watched three movies including Cleopatra (with a very young and slim Elizabeth Taylor) since our adventure will be taking us to Egypt. We sat next to a very nice young man who comes from Dubai but is studying in Brisbane.  He made some recommendations on what to do here.

Our hotel arranged for a driver in a BMW to pick us up at the airport. Dubai is filled with spectacular skyscrapers - I think each new building tries to be more unique than previous one.  We got our first look at the world's tallest building. When we checked into the Grosvenor House Hotel for our four night stay, we were upgraded to a one bedroom apartment. There is a full kitchen and two bathrooms.  The hotel also included afternoon tea filled with wonderful desserts, evening cocktails with remarkable appetizers, a full international champagne breakfast and free internet.  It may be hard to leave this place.  Some of the staff know our names already. After enjoying the afternoon tea, the evening cocktails and arranging our tours for the next three days we crashed into bed. In addition to the 7 1/2 flight, there is a four hour time difference.

Sunrise from our room in Dubai
Living room of our hotel in Dubai

Day 20, Thursday, December 23rd,  Today we took the hop on hop off bus around Dubai.  Dubai is one of the 7 emirates that make up the United Arab Emirates.  Dubai is the second largest of the emirates.  It is a brand new city with most buildings less than 10 years old. There are no old buildings, there is no city history.  Before oil, they all lived in tents or mud huts.  After oil was discovered in the late 60's everything changes for the citizens of the UAE.  Everything seems to be built without regard to cost.  They started with the sand as a blank pallet and created a beautiful city in the middle of the second largest desert in the world. Oil paid for everything.  Now they are developing tourism and commerce to replace the oil based economy.  Highlights of today's tour were the Mall of the Emirates with its ski slopes and huge aquarium, Dubai Mall (which is the largest mall in the world), the aquarium at Dubai Mall, and of course, the endless parade of beautiful buildings.
In the evening, under a full moon, we took a cruise on Dubai Creek to see the spectacular skyline of Dubai at night.

Starbucks at the Mall of the Emirates

Skiing at the Dubai Mall

Skiing at Dubai Mall

Fountain at Dubai Mall

Batmobile at Dubai Mall

Skyline of Dubai
Day 21, Friday, December 24th.  This morning we went to the Atlantis, which is one of the most spectacular hotels in Dubai. It has one of the largest aquariums in the world and a water park where you can swim with the dolphins and sharks – well, when you swim with the sharks you are swimming in one glass tube and they are in another tube.  This hotel and many others were built on reclaimed land.  For about $1 billion, you can even buy your own island off the coast of Dubai. Later in the day, we took a desert safari which involved dune buggy riding on the sand dunes and a Bedouin-style dinner in the desert complete with belly dancers and pipe smoking.

Skyline of beach section of Dubai

Atlantis Hotel

View from inside dune buggy

Sunset on desert


Day 22, Saturday, Christmas Day 2010.  Today we ventured to Abu Dhabi which is about 1 ½ hours from Dubai.  Abu Dhabi is the richest of the 7 emirates and the fourth largest producer of oil in the world.  It is so different from Dubai.  Growth in Dubai seems out of control, while growth in Abu Dhabi seems to be following a well-controlled plan.  While the population of the UAE is 4.5 million, “native” population is only 1 million.  All of the workers you see in the malls and in hospitality are immigrants mainly from Indian, Pakistan and the Philippines.  The UAE has the highest water consumption per capita in the world.  Virtually all of the water comes from desalination plants. Both Dubai and Abu Dhabi seem to be a little bit Vegas and a little bit Disneyland.  All of the malls in both cities were decorated for the Christmas season and you could hear Christmas music everywhere.

We visited the most expensive and one of the largest mosques in the world today – it can accommodate 40,000 worshipers. The Sheikh Zayed Mosque cost $1.3 billion and is named after the founder of the UAE.  As we approached the mosque, it reminded me of the Tah Majal.  It is a spectacular white structure built without regard to cost.  On the building, if it looks like marble or if it looks like gold, it is.  The mosque boasts the world’s largest chandelier and the world’s largest carpet.  We also drove by The Palace.  The Palace is a 7 star hotel that doesn’t like to be called a hotel.  The Christmas tree in the lobby was adorned with $11 million of jewels.  The hotel is closed to visitors, but you can visit during high tea for about $60.  The cappuccinos are even dusted with real gold! In the evening, we went to the top of the Burj Khalifa, the tallest building in the world.  The view at night from the 124th floor was spectacular. The Burj Khalifa opened in January of 2010 and is 2717 feet tall.  The Empire State Building is only 1250 feet tall.

heikh Zayed Mosque

heikh Zayed Mosque

heikh Zayed Mosque

Largest chandelier in world

Sheikh Zayed Mosque



Sheikh Zayed Mosque

Sheikh Zayed Mosque

Abu Dhabi
Tallest Building in the World


Dubai skyline



View from the top of tallest building in the world

Tallest building at night


Dancing fountains at Dubai Mall